From Jomon Earthenware to Shinro Ohtake: Gyakko/TotoToto – An Old Books and Antiques Store Where the Owner’s Distinctive Taste Shines Through, Transcending Era and Genre

2024.10.10

The Yaesu, Nihonbashi, and Kyobashi area is a hidden gem known only to those in the know, offering contemporary art, crafts, and antiques. What type of art are you planning to check out today with Mademoiselle Yulia, who is also deeply knowledgeable about the arts?

Tucked away in a back alley of Tokyo's Hacchobori, where modern office buildings line the streets, stands a discreet retro-style building. A unique antique store, co-owned by two persons, occupies the building’s second floor. Gyakko was an antique store originally managed by Manabu Suzuki at this location. Keisuke Onoda, owner of TotoToto, joined from Aichi Prefecture, and together they now co-own and operate it as a single store. This store stands out from the other antique shops we have visited in this series, differing entirely in both its purpose and the products it offers. Inside the small store, a diverse array of items is arranged without a specific genre, including Jomon earthenware, imported glass bottles, toys, and vintage books from the Showa period. We spoke with the two owners about the store's concept and the types of items that interest them.

Yulia: Hello. I have visited several antique art stores and galleries in Kyobashi and Nihonbashi, but this shop stands out with its unique atmosphere and distinctive selection.

 

Suzuki: Hello. Originally, this store primarily sold old books, but now it features both old books and antiques as its two main product categories.

 

Onoda: We no longer distinguish between genres or eras in the items we sell; our selection includes everything from Jomon earthenware to goods from contemporary artist Shinro Ohtake’s solo exhibition. We also offer Delft tiles and toys from the Showa era.

 

Yulia: I believe it is quite a hurdle to buy antiques with high artistic value and display them at home in today’s lifestyle. However, the items in this store feel like an extension of our lives. It is enjoyable to discover your own favorites and have a collection of items at home that you can appreciate and cherish.

 

Suzuki: I feel a bit embarrassed when people call our store an antique art shop. Still, we occasionally purchase items with high artistic value.

Yulia: I think it can be a bit difficult for many customers to find and enter this store since it is located on the second floor of a building. Do most customers come in with a specific item in mind to purchase?

 

Onoda: Yes, many of our customers are like that. We post information about our products on Instagram, which is why many people visit the store after seeing our updates. Since there are many offices in the area, some people frequently pass by this building and stop in out of curiosity.

 

Suzuki: This store does not have a specific genre of products, so specialized collectors rarely visit.

 

Yulia: I guess many customers stop by to find items they can use in their own lives.

 

Suzuki: Yes, many customers stop by to see if they can discover something interesting.

Kyushu is at the forefront of the trend related to prehistoric times. Trendy earthenware propagated from west to east

Onoda: This piece dates back to the Middle Jomon period, around 2000 BCE, which is roughly 4,000 years ago. It was excavated in Niigata. It was excavated in fragmented pieces and has since been restored to its current state.

 

Yulia: I have seen quite a few Jomon earthenware pieces in the past, but this is the first time I have touched one this large.

 

Suzuki: This stone is also from the Jomon period. Stone axe.

 

Yulia: It is beautiful.

 

Suzuki: Stone tools like this one were made by grinding and polishing stones. I assume many people gathered to polish stones.

 

Yulia: I remember my grandmother’s house in Yamanashi where I would go outside to gather stones, attach them to chopsticks, and create tiny original stoneware-like items to play with as a child.

 

Onoda: Interesting that you played like that. Yamanashi is a mecca for Jomon earthenware.

Yulia: Do you sell this one too?

 

Suzuki: Yes.

 

Yulia: Can I touch it?

 

Suzuki: Of course you can (smiles). Please hold it.

 

Yulia: It is quite heavy. It’s a really mysterious stone, and I can feel the density and moisture.

 

Suzuki: By the way, the price for this is 35,000 yen, and it’s up to the customer to decide whether they find it too expensive or reasonable (laughs).

The Jomon earthenware we have here today is priced at about 200,000 yen, and there are many items out there that can be too expensive for hobbyists.

 

Yulia: I find it fascinating that items like Jomon earthenware and stone axes have been discovered with similar designs in various locations across Japan.

 

Suzuki: It seems that even in prehistoric times, people from different regions interacted more than I had imagined. I imagine the idea gradually spread to neighboring villages, with people saying things like, “They are making something like this, and we are going to make it, too.”

 

Onoda: In the past, Kyushu was at the forefront of the trend because of its proximity to the continent. It is said that the culture was gradually introduced from Kyushu to the eastern regions.

 

Suzuki: I believe that trends were born in Kyushu, refined in the west, and gradually became less sophisticated as they moved east. Back then, the western region was considered a rural area.

They do not have specific criteria for purchasing. They choose items that resonate with their own sensibilities.

Yulia: The atmosphere of this store is incredibly relaxing. It is fascinating how the diverse items in the store, including books, antiques, and old toys, come together harmoniously in the space. Still, I genuinely believe there is a common aspect that connects them all.

 

Suzuki: I don’t know what it is (smiles). I have no specific criteria for making purchases.

 

Onoda: The lesson displayed on the wall, which we also acquired as an antique, perfectly represents our teachings. I thought it was a very nice message, so I put it up in my store to remind myself of it.

Onoda:  In this job, when I examine pieces, I often look at them with a greedy eye to determine whether they will sell. Of course, since this is a business, having a commercial perspective is essential. However, as Yanagi Sōetsu said, “Look at pieces with instincts, not knowledge.” I strive to remember that I should approach pieces based on my instincts and sell whatever I find interesting. I try to cherish this sensitivity.

 

Suzuki: We have something like an instinctive reaction, don’t we? When we are selecting clothes, for example, we instinctively select one that we like or imagine how a piece of clothing goes with the other clothes we already have. I guess these are the same thing. How about you, Yulia?

 

Yulia: I also only buy kimonos that I like. For example, if I find something that isn’t originally meant to be a sash clip but appeals to me, I’ll still purchase and use it as a sash clip. So, I completely understand what you’re saying. Is your home also filled with these beautiful items, Suzuki-san?

Suzuki: Oh, no, my house is nothing like “filled with beautiful antiques.” Since I am an antique dealer, whenever I find something good, I feel like I have to sell it right away (laughs).

There are many antiques that cost millions or even tens of millions of yen, but we purchase items within our budget, hoping customers will find pieces they can afford and enjoy using them in their daily lives.

I'm interested in seeing what catches the attention of people who visit this store.

Yulia: I am very interested in this book. This book looks really cute, but the title is Nihon no Zaibatsu.

 

Suzuki: This publisher mainly sells books on serious topics. Despite the serious topics, these old books have charming bindings. This perfectly illustrates the idea of buying something based on its cover.

Yulia: It would look great on display in a room just as it is.

 

Suzuki:  While this one is a paperback, we have a large collection of hardcover poetry and haiku books. Since these books are published in smaller quantities, their bindings are sturdily made. As Yulia just mentioned, we can appreciate their charm as unique objects.

Yulia: Are there any recommendations you would like visitors to see when they come to your store?

 

Suzuki: If you ask me to choose just one, it’s tough. I prefer to observe what catches people’s interest rather than recommend something to them. I am surprised or pleased by their choices. One of the joys of this job is being inspired by the sensitivities of those who visit the store.

Yulia's comment of the day

This enchanting space has a calming effect, even though it features items from different eras and genres that somehow come together as a cohesive whole. The old books from the Taisho and early Showa periods have intricate bindings and charm, making me want to purchase them just for their covers. It is fun enough to pick up each book and examine it closely. Some items are reasonably priced, so we invite antique beginners to come by and explore.

 

Costume cooperation: TELMA

Tops 42,900 yen

Skirt 86,900 yen

(Inquiries: info@telma.jp)

 

Photographer:Tatsuya Yamanaka

Writer:YUCO

  • Gyakko /TotoToto

    Address: 2F, 2-3-3 Hacchobori, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
    Tel: +81 (0)3-6280-3800
    Business hours: 12 to 7 p.m.
    Regular holidays: No scheduled holidays

     

    Gyakko Official Instagram

    TotoToto  Official Instagram

Mademoiselle Yulia
DJ/Kimono stylist

Yulia started her career as a DJ and singer in her teenage years. In addition to her work as a DJ, she is involved in a variety of activities, including kimono styling, teaching kimono classes, and writing columns, all while being based in Tokyo and traveling the world. She updates her YouTube channel, Yulia’s Room, every week.

「Yulia’s Room」:@melleyulia

Instagram:@mademoiselle_yulia

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