Touring Tokyo Art & Antiques, an annual spring event to see, touch, buy, and become familiar with art

2024.06.05

The Yaesu, Nihonbashi, and Kyobashi area is a hidden gem known only to those in the know, offering contemporary art, crafts, and antiques. What type of art are you planning to check out today with Mademoiselle Yulia, who is also deeply knowledgeable about the arts?

Today, I visited the Tokyo Art & Antiques, an annual art festival taking place in the Nihonbashi and Kyobashi area from April 25 to 27, 2024. Affordable antiques and artwork are displayed in storefronts, with special exhibitions and talk shows also taking place. Visitors new to art can casually browse the galleries, while art enthusiasts have the opportunity to dive deeper into their exploration. I attended this welcoming and inclusive event and enjoyed wandering through it.

We visited the Tokyo Art & Antiques on the final day of the three-day event. Maybe because it was the start of a major holiday weekend, the area around Nihombashi Takashimaya Department Store was already packed with people casually strolling, even though it wasn’t yet 10 a.m. Yulia appeared to be excited as well. Even for Yulia, a frequent visitor to the Nihonbashi and Kyobashi areas, Tokyo Art & Antiques feels like a special time of year.

“I can easily visit stores that I would usually find difficult to enter during this event. When I shop, I tend to ask questions about anything that piques my curiosity. “During this event, it’s easier to talk to the shop staff, and I might even find something affordable,” Yulia says with a smile.

Pick up the Art Map and begin exploring!

The Nihonbashi and Kyobashi area is home to around 150 specialty stores, including art dealers and galleries. We decided to visit the stores that caught our interest from the Art Map, a convenient guide displaying participating shops at a glance (distributed in the stores during the event).

 

First, we went to Hanabako on Sakura-dori. This store is one of the few in Japan that specializes in flower baskets. Only during this period, they showcased and sold Wajima-nuri lacquerware from the Wajima lacquer shop Tohachiya. Tohachiya was affected by the earthquake that struck the Noto Peninsula in Ishikawa Prefecture on New Year’s Day 2024, resulting in the destruction of the main store and partial damage to the workshop. To aid in its recovery, Hanakago hosted a sales event during the Tokyo Art & Antiques period.

There is no vessel as convenient and durable for everyday use as lacquerware.

The space was infused with a warm, traditional Japanese atmosphere featuring a variety of glossy lacquerware items on display, including Wajima-nuri plates, bowls, and stacked boxes. As I carefully picked up one of the lacquerware pieces, I was surprised by its lightweight, moist texture.

Yulia picked up a fork and said, “It’s made of wood, but the tips are very sharp.” In response, Jun’ei Shioji, the proprietress of Tohachiya, said, “Isn’t that so?” It is sharp yet feels smooth on the tongue, which is a characteristic of lacquerware. Lacquerware moderates the temperature of food and delivers its original flavor to the mouth. The sweetness of desserts, the chill of ice cream, the aroma of dashi broth … I believe lacquerware conveys these flavors directly to the tongue, enhancing their deliciousness,” she explained.

 

“Lacquerware is a luxury item, so they are not unsuitable for everyday use.” Many people may be thinking like this. However, this goes against the essence of lacquerware and the vision of Tohachiya. She says that no vessel is more convenient and durable for everyday use than lacquerware. With proper repair and refinishing, it can last a lifetime. This conclusion is based on Tohachiya’s long history of producing durable and elegant lacquerware since its establishment in 1888.

“I’ve always loved wooden cutlery and have been searching for a dessert fork for Japanese sweets for a long time. That’s why I’m so pleased to have found this fork today. It looks adorable, and I’m really happy with it.”

 

After leaving Hanabako, we headed to our next stop, Maesaka Seitendo, located on Higashinaka-dori. Maesaka Seitendo specializes in antique Japanese ceramics, including pieces like Koimari.

Whether it’s art or something else, what matters is selecting pieces that you truly love.

“I visited this shop in the previous issue of this series and learned a lot about Koimari, so I expect to enjoy it even more this time. Having some knowledge makes it easier to understand the appeal and points of appreciation. As you visit more often, you’ll gradually learn what to look for, which make it easier to find what you want. It feels similar to choosing a kimono,” says Yulia, who seems thrilled to be back at the gallery.

During Tokyo Art & Antiques, Maesaka Seitendo offers a wide selection of affordable Koimari tableware for everyday use. As Yulia browsed the store, she picked up various pieces of tableware, examined them, and set them aside as potential purchases. The round plates, round bowls, and small square bowls she selected were tableware from the late Edo to Meiji periods (around the 1830s to the early 1900s).

Among the pieces she selected, Satomi Maesaka, a staff member who assisted us, selected the small square bowl and talked about it (upper left in the photo).

 

“Koimari is typically produced in Saga Prefecture, but this small square bowl, known as Daishoji Imari, was made in Ishikawa Prefecture. This tableware was made during the Meiji period (1868–1912) and was designed to replicate the Koimari from the Edo period (1603–1868), when the finest Koimari was produced. The peony design symbolizes happiness, wealth, and immortality, while the lion represents protection from evil. Both are considered auspicious patterns.”

 

“The lion and peony patterns are familiar to me since they are commonly found on kimonos,” said Yulia, who examined the colors and textures of the tableware with curiosity.

 

Even though it is affordable tableware, it is still Koimari, and many people may not know how to select pieces that suit their tastes. When I mentioned this, Yulia nodded and replied, “Maybe so,” and explained what to look for when selecting a piece.

 

“It’s best to prioritize whether you truly like it. If you pick tableware based on the standard of what you really like, it will fit in nicely with what you already have at home, and you’ll probably be able to use them for a long time. By the way, I chose this Daishoji Imari because its pattern and size are exactly what I was looking for.”

 

Maesaka Seitendo is also selecting pieces that they like. So, they aim to convey the charm of old ceramics from the user’s perspective, hoping that those who appreciate them will cherish these pieces. Perhaps because so many people relate to this desire, the store quickly filled with customers.

 

“We’ve visited many traditional Japanese stores, so now let’s check out a shop that specializes in Western pieces,” Yulia said as she unfolded an art map. The Nihonbashi and Kyobashi area features not only traditional Japanese arts and antiques stores and galleries but also those that offer a diverse selection of European and other foreign art. We chose to visit the antique store Mokkei next. The shop space was a blend of traditional Japanese and Western styles showcasing Dutch Delftware and antique Chinese ceramics.

Experiencing the Traditional Japanese Margins with Dutch Delft Tiles

Mokkei is located halfway between Chuo-dori and Showa-dori in the Kyobashi area. As we walked down the long, narrow alley, the store was easy to spot from a distance. The striking contrast between the yellow “Mokkei” sign against a blue background and the red banner of Tokyo Art & Antiques caught my attention. During the Tokyo Art & Antiques event, they were hosting a joint project with the Maison de Neko Art Gallery located on the second floor of the same building.

 

The interior was softly illuminated with indirect lighting that showcases the two 17th-century Delft tiles painted in blue on a white background alongside red and gold Chinese ceramics. The left tile featured a cat, while the right tile had a unicorn.

Natsuko Oe, the owner of Mokkei, said, “These two motifs are quite rare and valuable. Delft tiles have been appreciated as interior decorations both in the past and today. They can be used on walls and floors or displayed in a frame like a painting. In Vermeer’s A Lady Writing a Letter with her Maid, the floor features Delft tiles arranged in a checkerboard pattern. In Japan, many people place small sweets and snacks on a large tile to appreciate the sentiment created by the empty space.”

 

Upon hearing this, Yulia remarked, “That’s a lovely way to use a tile. It would be nice to place Japanese sweets on this tile and pair them with the Wajima-nuri fork I just bought. Lacquerware complements any material beautifully.”

 

The two tiles reminded me of early Imari style (from the 17th century during the early Edo period), which featured simple blue underglaze on white porcelain. In fact, both Delftware and Imari ware were influenced by the intricate brushwork of Chinese porcelain.

The exhibition Life on This Planet, held at these two galleries, primarily showcased Delft tiles and Chinese ceramics along with wood carvings, engravings, and paintings by contemporary artists. This diverse collection allowed visitors to appreciate works that transcended both Eastern and Western cultures as well as different time periods.

 

We are quickly nearing the end of our stroll. Having viewed small items of tableware and tiles, we decided to explore furniture and chose Luka Scandinavia, a store that specializes in Scandinavian Danish furniture and antiques.

 

After walking about seven blocks from Mokkei, we visited Luka Scandinavia while checking the Art Map. The store’s showroom is a pleasant space with high ceilings and natural light gently illuminating the furniture through the full-length windows.

Small Japanese flower baskets highlight the charm of large Scandinavian furniture.

In the spacious area, an armchair and coffee table created around 1950 by Finn Juhl, one of the four great Scandinavian furniture designers, were on display. Both pieces of furniture exert a strong presence by making effective use of the beautiful grain of Brazilian rosewood. Small flower baskets hanging on the wall bring Japanese taste and a warm touch to the space.

 

After observing the exhibition for a while, Yulia said, “I enjoy Scandinavian furniture and have it in my home, and I also display Japanese flower baskets like this. I believe they complement each other because both are made from natural materials.”

 

In response, owner Tomoatsu Koshiishi said, “I think so, too. It has already been 25 years since we opened Luka Scandinavia. Before that, I was involved in the business of trading Japanese antiques. In this store, I strive to display items that have verifiable age and are well-preserved whenever possible.”

As Mr. Koshiishi mentioned, Imari ware pieces are displayed in the store alongside bases from the Danish pottery brand Kahler. The mix of Scandinavian and Japanese ceramics created a harmonious display, blending effortlessly without feeling out of place. Mr. Koshiishi states that Japan and Scandinavia have a shared aesthetic. He explained that people in both regions prioritize living in harmony with nature and practicing a minimalist lifestyle that reduces waste.

 

Like Mokkei, we experienced a space where Eastern and Western cultures blend harmoniously.

As we left Luca Scandinavia and headed home, Yulia suddenly said, “I have also drawn significant inspiration from artists from both the East and West, such as Yokoyama Taikan and Caravaggio. Perhaps that’s why I choose to work in a way that doesn’t fit into a category. I believe that both the East and the West have been crucial in shaping who I am today and who I will become in the future.”

 

Touring the Tokyo Art & Antiques with Yulia inspired me to incorporate more arts and crafts into my daily life.

Yulia's comment of the day

I was glad to hear stories from the owners of the antique shop as well as those from the Dutch Delft tile shop and the Scandinavian furniture shop I visited today. They had items priced around JPY 1,000, and I enjoyed shopping there. Additionally, simply observing the arts and crafts will be beneficial for my future shopping experiences. I believe that seeing and touching a wide variety of items will make you more interested in them. The Tokyo Art & Antiques is the perfect starting point to spark your interest in art and antiques. We highly recommend that you visit it next time.

 

Photo: Tatsuya Yamanaka

Writer: Manami Tominaga

Mademoiselle Yulia
DJ/Kimono stylist

Yulia started her career as a DJ and singer in her teenage years. In addition to her work as a DJ, she is involved in a variety of activities, including kimono styling, teaching kimono classes, and writing columns, all while being based in Tokyo and traveling the world. She updates her YouTube channel, Yulia’s Room, every week.

「Yulia’s Room」:@melleyulia

Instagram:@mademoiselle_yulia

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