2017.09.12
Guide and text: Keiko Nagahama Photograph: Mutsuko Kudo
Seems easy, but in fact difficult to select a hospitality gift. If giving a gift to a close friend, it is fine to give something you like and the person would be happy to receive. However, if you do not know the person’s preference, you meet for the first time, and you visit to apologize for something, it can be quite a headache. In either case, I basically offered something I tried and thought, “This is it!”
I’ve been living in Tokyo for 18 years, but I used to have trouble deciding what souvenirs to bring back to my hometown of Kyoto. “What on earth would they like?”
By the way, when I went to Sapporo and Kochi for the first time, I went to see the clock tower and the Harimaya Bridge, even though I had been told that I would be disappointed. Even though local people recommended Italian or French restaurants popular among them, I fully enjoyed and places only by eating local foods, such as jingisukan or Sawachi-ryori (assorted cold foods served on a large plate).
The same goes for souvenirs. First of all, they must be region specific. Easy to understand is also important. Especially, older people often disliked those too trendy. It would be great if sweets are faithful to the basics, have a rare quality, and have an interesting story to share when the recipient treats them to others.
Momoroku meets all these criteria. Founded in 1869, this shop is one of the oldest in Kyobashi, where there are many long-established shops. The Momotaro sign carved into a single piece of Japanese zelkova behind the showcase is a treasure that tells the story of Momoroku’s history. It survived both the fires of the Great Kanto Earthquake and the flames of the Great Tokyo Air Raids. Fusako, mother of Tomio Hayashi, the owner, showed the banner passed down through generations. I felt the history of this shop.
This shop is also known as one that actress Mitsuko Mori loved dearly. Mori bought our dorayaki, Hitokoe (pancake sandwiching azuki-bean paste in between) and Chemsi Okowa Bento as gifts for actors and the staff of stage productions and other events. She also often bought our dorayaki for gifts.
“We make our dorayaki following the traditional method: mixing equal parts sugar, eggs, and flour. Handmade without any preservatives. Ingredients and methods are the same as in the old days,” said Tomio. Deliciously baked dorayaki, a moist cake packed with bean paste bringing out the flavor of azuki beans. Ume, containing a whole sweet and sour green plum, and Kuri, containing a candied chestnut are also popular. I love Ume. The sweetness of smooth bean paste and the sourness of the green plum create an exquisite harmony in my mouth. In commemoration of the 2017 total performances of Mitsuko Mori’s signature masterpiece, “Horoki,” a dorayaki with the word “Horoki Mitsuko” printed on it was released in 2017.
Also, as they started out as a rice‐cake sweets shop, their dango and daifuku are delicious. Momotaro Dango, made using only joshinko (high-quality non-glutinous rice powder) pounded with a mallet and mortar, is a delicious treat with a chewy texture and the taste of the rice itself. There are two types: one containing smooth bean paste with a subtle sweetness, and one slightly browned with soy sauce. The soy sauce dango in particular has a crisp taste that will please even those who like spicy food.
“We pound rice cakes every day with a pestle and mortar,” said Tomio. “Our mochi sweets are made without any additives, so they will harden quickly over time, but that makes them even more delicious when they’re fresh.”
They also have a wide selection of seasonal fresh sweets, such as Anzu Uiro topped with sweet and sour apricots, and Fu Manju with the refreshing aroma of kneaded green seaweed. Fresh sweets often sell out by mid-day, so it’s best to go buy them early in the day. If you know in advance that it will be eaten on the same day, it will surely be a welcome gift.
They also have a wide selection of seasonal fresh sweets. From the left, visually brisk Ume Suiren (JPY 230), containing bean paste and green plum wrapped with a smooth mizu manju. Anzu Uiro (JPY 210) is a Minazuki-style lightly sweet Uiro with sweet and sour apricots spread on top. Fumanju (JPY 230), containing smooth red bean paste wrapped with dough kneaded with green laver. The rough appearance is proof that they are hand-mixed. Their best-before dates all are two days when refrigerated. The sales periods for seasonal sweets vary, so they may be not available.
When it comes to Western sweets, I often choose German sweets. I prefer buttercream over fresh cream, and hearty sweets filled with nuts and chocolate. So, I think ones containing buttercream can be stored at room temperature are suitable as hospitality gifts. German sweets are generally considered to be plain. However, Gmeiner in Nihonbashi Takashimaya offers gorgeous German sweets combining cuteness.
Gmeiner is a long-established confectionery shop in the Black Forest region of Germany that has been in business for 100 years. Volker Gmeiner, the fourth owner, trained for confectionery not only in Germany but also in France, Austria, Switzerland, and Italy. He creates original sweets that combine traditional German sweets with various cultural elements. He has six shops in Germany. This shop in Nihonbashi Takashimaya is only one in Japan, so their products are a perfect gift.
As a gift, its taste, wrapping, and impression that you get when you open it are important. Gmeiner offers products not too flashy with classy elegance, so it’s sure to make a good impression even for even people you meet for the first time!
The Black Forest in southern Germany is known for its high-quality fruit, so the shop offers many sweets using fruit. For example, Baumkuchen has a moist texture, baked without any additives, using only egg bubbles. With the faint scents of lemon peel and brown sugar.
Their specialty, Cherry Bonbon. You can fully enjoy the taste and aroma of the fruit. Cherries from the Black Forest, famous for its cherries, are harvested just before they are fully ripe, taking into consideration their compatibility with the flavor of chocolate. These large cherries are steeped in Kirschwasser, a distilled spirit made from cherries, for around half a year. Dark chocolate contains a generous amount of Kirschwasser, so it’s best to enjoy it in one bite. The best-before date is 10 days. The fondant inside gradually mixes with the Kirschwasser in the cherries, so you can enjoy a gradation of deliciousness over time. Explaining this when giving it as a gift is sure to spark conversation.
Another my favorite souvenir is Teegebäck, a baked confectionery packed with traditional German flavors and techniques as it keeps well. If the recipient can enjoy on the same day, I also recommend Schillerlocken. It’s a cornet-like pastry made of cream wrapped in puff pastry shaped like a snail, but the light puff pastry is packed with smooth cream. Two varieties, custard cream and chocolate are offered. Especially I recommend the chocolate one. At first, I thought its cream was softer from its appearance, but I was surprised after one bite! It was rich, almost like a ganache. Its slightly bitter chocolate will be enjoyed even by those who don’t like sweet things.
Profile of the guide: Keiko Nagahama
From Kyoto Prefecture. She has written extensively on topics ranging from business to games and subculture, with a focus on cooking and food culture. Her representative books include Let Me Eat! Prefectural Meals) (Kodansha), which introduces local cuisine and soul food from all 47 prefectures, Tokyo Business Trip (KEIHANSHIN Lmagazine), Viva! Country People (Kodansha), which introduces regional prefectural characteristics, Portrait for Country People (Penguin Shobo), and Namaritei (Wanibooks).
Momoroku
Address
2-9-1 Kyobashi, Chuo-ku
Tel
+81 (0)3-3561-1746
Business hours
9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Regular holidays
Sundays and public holidays