Osatou Hitosaji, a magazine editor duo, explored the Yaesu, Nihonbashi, and Kyobashi areas with iPhones in hand. They offer whole new fresh perspectives that make exploring the town enjoyable, highlighting both major landmarks and hidden gems.
The first volume is "Enjoying the Morning at YNKs." This volume introduces spots the duo discovered while exploring from a café serving breakfast for commuters to a coffee stand that doubles as a teleworking space, and even a nice walking route where you can enjoy the pleasant morning atmosphere of this good old town.
As Sei Shonagon wrote, “In winter, it is the early morning,” winter mornings are a time of day that holds special significance. Eager to experience the unique charms the YNK area offers in the early morning, we woke up a bit earlier than usual and met at Nihonbashi.
While people hurried past the bridge on their way to work, we paused to take a look at the Nihonbashi River. It is remarkable how watching the gentle flow of the river in the crisp winter air can be so calming.
It was the Nihonbashi Bridge, one we had crossed without much thought until today. Upon closer inspection, the bridge’s classic design is quite nice. In Edo, where fires were frequent, the bridge burned down multiple times by the end of the Edo period. The current Western-style double-arch bridge, the 19th iteration, was constructed in 1911.
Here in Nihonbashi, there used to be a fish market until it moved to Tsukiji after the Great Kanto Earthquake. It is said that during the Edo period, large stores lined both sides of the street by the bridge. And now—the Metropolitan Expressway, which runs over the Nihonbashi Bridge, is undergoing construction to move underground.
In contrast to the hurried passersby on their way to work, the Nihonbashi Bridge stands with its usual dignified presence, watching over the city. We realized the significance of taking a brief pause now and then, even on busy days filled with tasks. We felt that the Nihonbashi Bridge, which has witnessed the changing times from the same spot since the Edo period, has taught us something important.
Nihonbashi Bridge
Address: 1-8 Nihonbashi-Muromachi to 1-1 Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
We often opt for franchise restaurants that can be found in any city we visit. We feel a bit nervous visiting a new restaurant, and we cannot predict what the food will taste like.
However, we have discovered a café that is one of the oldest establishments in Nihonbashi, and it’s a place we can visit casually!
We visited the Eitaro Souhonpo at its Nihonbashi location. There, we found the perfect breakfast option: the Nihonbashi Anko Butter Toast & Drink Set for JPY 748.
The bread is baked by Maizon Kayser. It is crispy and savory. I tore off a piece of the toast, which had slits cut into it for easier eating. It was the perfect toast—crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside.
First, I spread Calpis butter on the toast, and then I added a generous layer of tsubuan (sweet red bean paste). I piled on an enormous amount of anko (also sweet red bean paste).
The coffee was brewed with a blend that paired perfectly with Japanese sweets.
After all, breakfast is special. We often treat breakfast as just a boring routine, but I believe that spending a little extra time in the morning would make my day feel more fulfilling.
I wanted to learn more about the charms of this town, and as I tasted anko infused with its long history and tradition, I found myself wondering about the culture of the townspeople during the Edo era. On mornings like this, I wake up a bit earlier than usual and take in the atmosphere of Nihonbashi.
Eitaro has a history of over 200 years. Eitaro, the shop’s original founder, opened it at the foot of Nihonbashi Bridge in 1857. They have been selling the iconic triangular Eitaro candies, packaged in the well-known round tin, since the 19th century.
Eitaro Souhonpo, Nihonbashi Store
Address: 1-2-5 Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Business hours:
Cafe 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Shop 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Regular holidays: Sundays and public holidays
It was not far from the Yaesu Central Exit of Tokyo Station, the gateway to the Shinkansen bullet train. Once you step from the main street into the alley, you’ll notice a shift in atmosphere.
The area is filled with small shops.
Yojuin Street, one of the small alleys in Yaesu, is home to long-established ryotei-style restaurants, eel restaurants, and other renowned restaurants and shops. I noticed a tiny shrine that I might have missed if I had been walking quickly. It stood there quietly among the buildings.
It was Oman Inari Shrine. The shrine is dedicated to Oman, who was a concubine of Tokugawa Ieyasu. Back then (the early 1600s), a shogunate rest house was situated near the shrine. It is said that Oman often visited the Nihonbashi area, where she regularly shopped for items to donate to the shrines. Merchants built the shrine in honor of Oman, who played a role in the development of commerce.
I always thought the Edo period was a long time ago, but walking around this town makes me feel a connection between the Edo period and my current life in the 21st century. In the morning since the restaurants remained closed, I quietly visited the shrine and said a prayer during my walk. I prayed for the success of my business.
Oman Inari Shrine
Address: 3-3-2 Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
On days when I have an in-person meeting in the morning, I try to arrive a bit early and prepare for work over coffee near the meeting location. This way, I do not have to worry about being late for the appointment, allowing me to calmly gather my thoughts and prepare.
Good Coffee Farms is the ideal coffee shop to visit before work in the morning. The restaurant’s moderately busy and warm atmosphere creates a great environment for focusing on my tasks. Thankfully, both Wi-Fi and power are available. And of course, the shop serves great coffee, which naturally puts me in work mode.
This is a pleasant relaxation spot for those working in the YNK area and a workspace for freelancers like us who visit this area occasionally. This is another place I would love to recommend to someone.
Good Coffee Farms Cafe & Bar
Address: 1F, 3-1-3 Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Business hours: Monday to Friday: 7 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.
Saturday, Sunday, and public holidays: 9 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. (LO: 9 p.m. every day)
Regular holidays: None
Website:
https://www.goodcoffeefarms.com/
The magazine editor duo, Asuka Chida and Yuka Dousaka. They engage in a variety of activities with the theme, “offering a spoonful of sugar to all women who were once girls.” They share updates on their Instagram, @osatouhitosaji, and publish a small magazine that reflects their current moods and inspirations.