Vol. 2 Retro Searching in the YNKs

Yaesu, Nihonbashi, Kyobashi … These areas, steeped in history dating back to the Edo period (since the 1600s), provide opportunities to encounter pieces from various time periods as you explore. From the onset of Westernization (around the late 1800s to early 1900s) until the mid-Showa period (around 1940s to 1960s), these areas were likely vibrant with the latest Western-influenced culture.

Even today, the town is filled with slightly retro items from that era, evoking a sense of nostalgia in me, which feels strange since I was not yet born then.

Coffee Lotus, a long-established coffee shop in business since 1966, is one such place. On a rainy evening, the owner welcomed us warmly. The restaurant’s interior is styled with mid-century decor and is adorned with a variety of tasteful flowers.

The menu offers a wide variety of options for each dish, including different types of toast, sandwiches, desserts, and drinks. Which one do you recommend? When I asked, the owner replied, “I recommend them all!” I ordered the fresh fruit parfait and fruit sandwich I had been looking for along with a carefully brewed dripping coffee made with a flannel filter.

The parfait, piled high with fruit, is photogenic and characteristic of those served at retro coffee shops. The Lotus Biscoff, also featured in the shop’s name, adds a delightful touch. Despite the generous portion, I devoured it quickly.

The fruit sandwich was also large enough for two people to share, but the cream, with its subtle sweetness, was so delicious that we also finished it in no time!

We spent a delightful evening at Lotus, where customers arrived one after another to enjoy sweets and coffee. Perhaps everyone comes to see the owner and enjoy a pleasant moment. Now, I want to come back to this shop in the morning as well.

As we walk down Kyobashi 2-chome, a majestic building catches our eye among the surrounding structures. The Renaissance-style building is the Meidi-ya Kyobashi Building. The ground floor of the building houses the Meidi-ya Kyobashi Store.

The building was constructed in 1933. The building survived the massive bombing of Tokyo during World War II, and its graceful appearance today reflects the history of Kyobashi.

Meidi-ya, as its name suggests, was originally established as a ship delivery business during the Meiji era (1868–1912). The founder, Hakaru Isono, studied in England and developed a taste for first-class Western food and beverages. He began selling imported products to bring this high-class Western food culture to Japan. He played a key role in introducing the latest Western food culture to Japan during that time.

Even today, as Western food has become the norm, the Meidi-ya Kyobashi Store remains a unique place to visit. Stepping into this elegant building is already an exciting experience. Inside, the display of unique imported foods, seasonings, canned goods, sweets, and liquors from around the world is truly intriguing.

The store displays black-and-white photographs and vintage sake advertising posters that remind visitors of the restaurant’s long history since it first opened. While walking through the store and reflecting on Japan’s food culture from the past, I discovered a jam that reproduced the flavors of the Meiji era! This strawberry jam is part of Meidi-ya’s original My Jam brand and comes in a charming package with its original design and English lettering printed on it. This jam dates back to a time when people preferred sweeter flavors. So, this one is sweeter than the current My Jam variety.

With its rich history and stylish packaging, this jam makes a perfect gift. Meidi-ya’s fine foods are just as sought-after today as they were when the company was founded. Whether you are looking to add a touch of luxury to your dining table or give someone a thoughtful gift, this Kyobashi location is the perfect place to visit.

As we walked along Kajibashi-dori, we came across a building with striking equilateral triangle windows. This building houses the National Film Archive of Japan. The headquarters of Nikkatsu was once located here, and further back in the Meiji period, there was a movie theater named Daiichi Fukuhokan.

Nikkatsu, Daiei, Toei … In the past, most major Japanese film companies gathered in Kyobashi. I had no idea until now, but Kyobashi used to be a movie town.

The National Film Archive of Japan is an institution dedicated to collecting, preserving, and restoring primarily films and related materials. In addition, the hall equipped with a screen is used for special screenings, educational programs, and themed exhibits featuring film-related materials.

This time, we visited the exhibition room on the seventh floor. This exhibition room hosts both permanent and special exhibitions. In the permanent exhibition, visitors can watch the film History of Japanese Movies. (Admission to both the permanent and special exhibitions is just JPY 250 for adults!)

The history of Japanese cinema began with the early days of film, which captured Kabuki performances. It then evolved through silent films, sound films, and war movies. Stage performances were once the primary form of entertainment, but movies have since become central to people’s entertainment. This shift is reminiscent of today’s trend, where the focus is moving from television shows to YouTube videos and streaming services. As we explored the history of Japanese cinema through restored rare films and original posters, we gradually felt as though we were traveling back in time.

They displayed hand-drawn posters with innovative designs and a diverse array of films that appear powerful even today. These displays showcased a sense of care and attention to detail that only human hands could achieve in the analog era. We felt that they were trying to convey a message to us, especially in today’s world where anything can be created instantly.

The extensive collection cannot be fully appreciated in a single visit, so we look forward to coming back again and again.

We found another favorite place in this area.